Paramaribo Food Tour
Six kitchens inside three kilometres, from the fish hall to saoto in Blauwgrond.
Black water, white sand, and you can see your feet on the bottom.
Fifty kilometres south of Paramaribo, in the white sand of Para district, lies a creek the colour of cola: translucent red-brown from the tannins in fallen leaves, shallow and cool. You swim, you lie in a hammock, you eat a Surinamese lunch by the water, and you are back at your hotel by half four.
For Surinamese people Colakreek is the default Sunday destination, which is exactly what makes it good: at weekends it fills with families, hammocks and music. If you want quiet we go midweek. Say which you prefer when you enquire; they are two very different days.
On the way we drive through the savannah belt of Para district: white sand flats with low scrub, nothing like the rainforest people expect of Suriname. We stop briefly so you can see why the sand is white there and, as a result, why the water is black.
At the creek you swim, lie in a hammock, or walk the loop through the savannah forest. There are changing rooms and toilets. Lunch is Surinamese and included.
This is the slowest day we offer. If you are travelling with children, it is usually the one they enjoy most.
Times are indicative. Weather, traffic and how long you want to stay somewhere decide the rest.
Families with children, and anyone who after three days of city and heat simply wants to get in the water.
Not a wildlife day: birds and maybe a caiman, but no monkeys and no sloths, go to Peperpot or Brownsberg for those. And at weekends it fills up with Surinamese families and music; if you want quiet, we have to go midweek.
Yes. Colakreek is blackwater: translucent red-brown from tannins in fallen leaves, not cloudy and not polluted. It is shallow, cool and has been swum in for decades. The acidity also keeps the water unusually clear.
Tannins. As the leaves of the surrounding savannah forest break down they release tannic acid into the water, giving it the colour of tea or cola. The same thing happens in blackwater rivers across the Amazon basin. It is not mud, you can see your feet on the bottom.
About 50 kilometres, in Para district near Zanderij, close to the international airport. Roughly an hour by car.
Midweek for quiet, weekends if you want the Surinamese Sunday crowd. In the long rainy season (late April to early August) the water is higher and cooler, but you can swim year-round.
Six kitchens inside three kilometres, from the fish hall to saoto in Blauwgrond.
From the cells of Fort Zeelandia to the synagogue that shares a plot with a mosque.
Saoto, satay, petjil and dawet. Four warungs, three hours, no menus.
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