Warung hopping in Blauwgrond: Javanese Paramaribo only starts after six

Javanese Surinamese people are descendants of indentured labourers brought from the Dutch East Indies from 1890 onwards. What they brought with them has been developing here for a hundred and thirty years and is no longer the same as in Java: the sambal is different, there is more sweetness, and saoto has become a Surinamese dish in its own right.

We make four stops. At the first you eat saoto: clear yellow chicken broth with beansprouts, fried potato slices, fried onion, half a boiled egg and as much sambal as you dare. At the second, petjil, steamed vegetables with peanut sauce, and bami. At the third, satay off the grill, usually chicken, sometimes heart or liver if you are game.

The fourth stop is sweet and cold: dawet, a pink-and-green drink with coconut milk and pandan jelly that looks odd on the first sip and stops looking odd on the second. Then we drop you wherever you want in the city.

This tour deliberately does not overlap with the daytime food tour. Do both and you never eat the same thing twice.