Paramaribo Food Tour
Six kitchens inside three kilometres, from the fish hall to saoto in Blauwgrond.
Songbirds at seven, Javanese market at eight, breakfast at nine.
At seven on Sunday morning, dozens of men stand dead still on Independence Square beside cages holding one small bird each, counting which one sings most. You watch, you get told what is actually at stake, and then you eat breakfast at the Javanese Sunday market: bami and telo, not a croissant in sight.
The bird is the twa-twa (or picolet) and the contests have been a fixture of the Surinamese weekend for generations. A good singer is worth serious money and serious betting. We come to watch, not to take part, and we explain what is going on, because without that you just see men staring quietly at cages.
Afterwards we drive to the Sunday market where the Javanese community does its shopping: fresh sambal, steamed snacks, tempeh, young coconut. You have breakfast there the way Surinamese people do on a Sunday, no croissant, but bami, telo with salt meat, or pom if you are lucky.
We finish with coffee and a walk along the Waterkant while the city slowly gets going. You are back by noon with the rest of the day ahead of you.
This tour runs on Sundays only and starts early, because otherwise it does not exist. By nine the bird contest is over.
Times are indicative. Weather, traffic and how long you want to stay somewhere decide the rest.
Early risers, photographers, and anyone a few days into the city wondering where the Surinamese spend their Sunday.
Skip it if getting up at 06:45 on holiday is out of the question: the contest is over by nine and after that this tour does not exist. And it is not a zoo, the birds are kept in small cages, which is simply what this tradition is.
On Sunday mornings enthusiasts gather on Independence Square with small songbirds, twa-twa or picolet, in cages. Two cages are set side by side and judges count which bird sings most often in fifteen minutes. It starts around seven and is finished before nine.
Yes, though it is a different city from the weekday one: many shops and offices close, while the markets, the bird contest and the warungs are at their best. Our four-hour Sunday morning tour (€42 per person) is built entirely around that.
We pick you up at 06:45. That sounds early, but the contest is over by nine and by eleven it is above thirty degrees. Early is the comfortable part of the day here.
Six kitchens inside three kilometres, from the fish hall to saoto in Blauwgrond.
From the cells of Fort Zeelandia to the synagogue that shares a plot with a mosque.
Saoto, satay, petjil and dawet. Four warungs, three hours, no menus.
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