Paramaribo Food Tour
Six kitchens inside three kilometres, from the fish hall to saoto in Blauwgrond.
A neat white director’s house looking straight at a cell.
You cross the Suriname River in the morning, the only way the Waterkant still looks the way it was meant to, and walk into an eighteenth-century coffee plantation where the director’s house, the police post and the cells still stand in sight of each other. In the afternoon you follow the old plantation tracks at Peperpot between the cacao trees, with sloths overhead almost every time.
We cross by boat in the morning. On the way you see the city from the water, which is the only way the Waterkant still looks the way it was meant to. With luck there are Guiana dolphins in the river mouth; that is not a guarantee and we do not pretend otherwise.
Fort Nieuw Amsterdam is the first stop: a pentagonal fort from 1747 at the fork of the Suriname and Commewijne rivers, now an open-air museum. Then Frederiksdorp, an eighteenth-century coffee plantation where the director’s house, the police post and the cells are all still standing. That contrast, a neat white house looking out at a cell, is the point of the day.
We eat lunch by the river. In the afternoon we drive to Peperpot: a former coffee and cacao plantation given back to the forest and now a nature park. You walk the old plantation tracks between cacao trees, and you almost always see sloths, often howler monkeys, toucans or an anteater.
We tell this history straight. If you want a pleasant day out without the slavery part, this is not the right tour.
Times are indicative. Weather, traffic and how long you want to stay somewhere decide the rest.
People who want Surinamese history told on the ground where it happened rather than sailed past, and anyone who wants to see sloths.
Not for you if an open boat makes you seasick, and not if you want a pleasant day out: slavery and indenture are the substance of this day, not a footnote. It is seven hours, some of it in full sun.
Ours is €75 per person for seven hours, including boat, entries and lunch. On international platforms Commewijne plantation tours run from $169 to $295 per person. A local operator in Paramaribo charges around €70 to €85, we deliberately sit just below or alongside them, because the difference here is the telling, not the price.
Guiana dolphins (Sotalia guianensis) live in the mouth of the Suriname River. You see them regularly but not always; chances are best at low tide and in the late afternoon. We do not promise them, because nobody honestly can.
Yes. Peperpot Nature Park is one of the most reliable places in Suriname for three-toed sloths; they sit in the cecropia trees along the main path. Also howler monkeys, toucans and, more rarely, a giant anteater.
By ferry or small passenger boat across the Suriname River from the Waterkant, or by road over the Jules Wijdenbosch bridge. We go out by boat because arriving from the water is what makes it, and come back by road because it is faster.
Six kitchens inside three kilometres, from the fish hall to saoto in Blauwgrond.
From the cells of Fort Zeelandia to the synagogue that shares a plot with a mosque.
Saoto, satay, petjil and dawet. Four warungs, three hours, no menus.
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