Paramaribo Food Tour
Six kitchens inside three kilometres, from the fish hall to saoto in Blauwgrond.
Leave in the dark, stand at five hundred metres by ten.
You leave at 05:30 in the dark, by half seven you are standing at a reservoir where the dead trunks of a drowned forest still break the surface, and by ten you are looking down on that same water from a plateau five hundred metres up. In between we walk to a waterfall, and the red howler monkeys reach you kilometres before they come into view.
The Brokopondo reservoir was created in 1964 when the Afobaka dam closed the Suriname River to power the bauxite industry. Roughly 1,560 square kilometres of forest went under water and six thousand people, mostly Saramaccan Maroons, had to leave their villages. The dead trunks of the drowned forest still stand out of the water. That image is why people come, and the story behind it comes with it.
Brownsberg Nature Park sits on a plateau of about five hundred metres on the western side of the reservoir. It is cooler up there, and it is one of the best wildlife places in Suriname: red howler monkeys (which you will almost certainly hear), squirrel monkeys, capuchins, toucans and with luck an armadillo.
We walk to at least one of the waterfalls, usually Leo Val or Irene Val, depending on water level and trail condition. That is a proper walk with roots, mud and climbing. Not mountaineering, but not a boulevard either.
It is eleven hours door to door, roughly four of them in the car on partly unpaved road. If that does not appeal, do not book this one.
Times are indicative. Weather, traffic and how long you want to stay somewhere decide the rest.
People who want to get properly into the interior without staying overnight, and who accept eleven hours, four of them in a vehicle, as the price of it.
Not for small children, not for anyone with back or knee trouble, and not if four hours of shaking along partly unpaved road would ruin your day. Take Colakreek or Peperpot instead.
Ours is €95 per person for eleven hours, including 4x4 transport, park entry and lunch. On Viator a Brownsberg day trip costs $233, and a standalone Brownsberg tour starts around $85 without the reservoir stop. Local operators in Paramaribo charge roughly €80 to €99.
You will almost always hear red howler monkeys, the call carries for kilometres, and often see them. Squirrel monkeys and brown capuchins are regular too. Early morning is best, which is one reason we leave at 05:30.
When the Afobaka dam closed the Suriname River in 1964, about 1,560 km² of rainforest was flooded without being logged first. The trunks were never removed and still break the surface. Around six thousand people, largely Saramaccan Maroons, lost their villages.
Expect 1 to 2 hours on forest paths with tree roots, mud and elevation, plus a descent to the waterfall that you then have to climb back up. The plateau sits at about 500 metres. Not technical, but genuinely strenuous; good shoes are a requirement, not a suggestion.
Six kitchens inside three kilometres, from the fish hall to saoto in Blauwgrond.
From the cells of Fort Zeelandia to the synagogue that shares a plot with a mosque.
Saoto, satay, petjil and dawet. Four warungs, three hours, no menus.
What you can count on
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